In contrast to the old-fashioned and complex mortise locks, the majority of the locksets that you will see today are cylindrical in nature and are relatively simple to put in. In essence, the installation process requires the drilling of a large hole through the front of the door, and an even smaller hole to be drilled through the edges. After drilling the holes the toughest task is cutting the mortises to make the latch and strike plates.
Two factors are essential to the success of your Install A Lockset: a meticulous layout along with sharp and precise tools. Alongside tape measure and a square combination and hammer, you’ll require scratch awls, a 21/8-in. hole saw as well as 15/16-in. spade bitand 1 in. chisel. Making the lockset is different from one brand to the next and it’s therefore crucial to review the instructions of the manufacturer.
Make sure the door is secure, then Make The Small and Large Holes
Step 1. Utilize a square combination to layout. The majority of locksets include the paper template to mark the face and edge bore. It’s much easier and more precise to make use of a combination square, particularly when you have multiple locksets to set up. Start by securing the door half-way open using two shims on the lower edge. Mark the door’s face from both ends, approximately 2/3 inches. from the top edge of the door (2 3/4 in. for doors with exteriors) and usually 36 inches. to the level of the flooring. This is marked in the middle of the door, to match the faces.
Step 2. Pilot holes make ways for larger pieces. To ensure that those holes that will be used for the cylinders are at the correct place and don’t drift by accident, use a scratch awl to make the exact starting points. After that, drill pilot holes using 1/8-in. bit on the edge, and on both sides of the door.
Step 3: First, drill the bore on your face. While holding the tool at a at a certain level and with a square in front of the door make a half-drill through one side using the 21/8-in. hole saw. Complete the bore from the opposite side of the door.
Step 4: Utilize a nail for marking the middle of the strikeplate. Close the door and secure it in place until the stop, then drive a nail of 6d across the 1-inch. pilot hole on the door edge until it is able to penetrate the door jamb. A pry bar will provide leverage when needed.
Step 5: Make holes to the latch as well as strike using a 15/16 in. spade bit. (A 7/8-in. bit isn’t enough for most latch mechanisms in addition, the hole created by the 1 in. bit will not be completely covered with the plate.)
Step 6: Make use of the latch to serve as a model. After drilling the bore on the edge then insert the latch mechanism , and fix it using the screws supplied. Then, trace the edges using the sharp edge of a utility knife. Be extra cautious when cutting vertically across the grain as the knife could drift. Some carpenters use scratch awls for cutting across the grain.
Step 7. Be patient using the chisel. Keep a sharp chisel in approximately 45deg towards the work. Then mark the front of the mortise by lightly tapping the chisel using the hammer. Cut across the grain in small increments of 1/8 inch. or so. After that, cut off the scrap or so, moving the chisel toward the center. Verify the alignment on the plate. it should sit in line with the door’s surface. If you find yourself carving too deeply, cut an adobe piece to help shim the latch plate in line to the edge of the door.
Step 8. Set the strike in line and the latch. Close the door and then transfer the bottom and top sides of the plates onto the jamb of the door. Then, measure the distance between the edges of the plate that is the interior side of the door and then leave the equal distance between the reverse of the strike plate as well as the door’s top. For 1 3/8 in. doors (if you have the lock placed correctly) The space must be a substantial 1/8 inch.
Step 9: Make a cut in the mortise strike using the same method used to cut the latch plate.